Lithuaniais south of Latvia, but before we get there, we travel the fertile fields of Zemgale. Peaceful and contented folk live here, and for good reason too, the fertile fields have been the granary of Latvia for centuries. The French royal family found it to be a fitting safe refuge after the revolution, and it seemed harmless enough for Napoleon’s army to take a sharp turn right into Russia.
One could therefore say there are no surprises here but, just when you least expect it, bang! In the middle of a field, Rundāle, the biggest palace of the region outside St Petersburg spreads out before you! You can’t top such a monument to craftsmanship, and so, the zemgalians have turned their attention from the built to the natural environment, imbuing the local forests with stories, figures and games for young and old. The mystical is palpably close to the surface here, as well as elsewhere in Latvia.

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